A Veritable Feast

So, Montreal is known for its fabulous food that combines fine dining, careful preparation and selection of ingredients in the tradition of the French with the more laissez-faire, laid back attitudes of North America. Actually, French Canadians are known for their rebellious nature, and are not very into pretention, rules, regulations or formalities. Combine that with the fact that Montreal is a fabulously multicultural city and you have a veritable banquet of delights and gastronomical experimentation. There is no shortage of places to eat in this town, the only difficulty you may have is choosing! Here are some suggestions by category...

Markets
Atwater Market, 138 Atwater Ave. (St.-Henri - Metro Lionel Groulx) — Of Montreal’s four main public markets this one is probably the most upscale. The prices are a little higher and the atmosphere is a little less multicultural than the Jean-Talon Market. Nonetheless, the Atwater Market is near the Lachine canal if you want to hire bicycles or walk along the water, and its main hall is lovely. Vic Market it ain't!

Jean-Talon Market, 7070 Henri Julien (Little Italy - Metro de Castelnau or Jean Talon)—This is a truly wonderful market, with lots of atmosphere in a wonderfully multicultural and vibrant neighbourhood. The shops are open year-round and the stalls open up in the warmer months. Don't miss the artisan cheeses from Quebec.

Cafés
Café Italia, 6840 St.-Laurent, 514-495-0059 (Little Italy)—Fabulous espresso in an authentic setting. $

Café Olympico, 124 St-Viateur W, 514-495-0746 (Mile End)— This cafe suffered a fire recently and have rebuilt losing some of its original charm, but they still make one of the best lattes in town and the place is filled with regulars, excellent for people watching. $

Chez José, 173 Duluth E, 845-8693 (Plateau)— Relaxed and youthful atmosphere in this hip cafe. An insitution in the Plateau known for empanadas, smoothies, simple breakfasts and inexpensive prices. $

Le Depanneur, 206 Bernard O, 514-271-9357 (Mile End) — Charming wooden decor that makes you feel you are in a cabin in the woods. An artistic, eclectic cafe with generous salads and delicious coffee. Often host poetry readings and music in the evenings. $

Le Figaro, 5200 Hutchison, 514-278-6567 (Outremont)—This is just a lovely place to sit on a lazy summer afternoon. Beautiful European style cafe with gorgeous wrought iron terrace. $-$$

Titanic, 445 St Pierre, 849-0894 (Old Montreal)—Great cafe with charming atmosphere and scrumptuous, simple and affordable lunches. Open weekdays for lunch only. Grab a coffee and sandwich while sight seeing in Old Montreal. $-$$

Bakeries
Boulangerie Monsieur Pinchot, 4354 Brebeuf (Plateau), 514-522-7192—Totally charming neighbourhood bakery right by a scenic bicycle path, so hire a bike and stop for something yummy. The croissants are sinfully buttery and they serve Bilboquet sorbets (see below).

Cheskie, 359 Bernard W, 514-271-2253 (Mile End)—Fantastic Kosher bakery. If you have a hankering for a potatoe knish, this is the place to go.

Le Fromentier, 1375 Laurier E, 514-527-3327 (Plateau East)—Truly wondrous artisan bakery that also houses a fabulous cheese shop on the premises. This bakery is right near Talya's place, so come and visit after you pick up a croissant!

Restaurants
Aux Vivres, 4631 Blvd. St Laurent, 514-842-3479 (Plateau)—Fabulous vegan restaurant that makes the mouth water just thinking about the food. It is one of the only places on the planet where you will forget it is vegan or healthy and just be happy you are alive. Beautiful atmosphere, fabulous weekend brunches and delicious smoothies. Try the Dragon bowl or the Meekong sandwich on homemade chippati. $

Byblos, 1499 Laurier E., 514-523-9396 (Plateau East - Metro Laurier)—Wonderfully warm atmosphere at this Persian restaurant. The food is delcious and the flavours unexpected. Unusual Iranian breakfasts and the rose water and saffron ice-cream make for interesting fare. Dinner specials change nightly. $-$$

Chu Chai and Chuch Express, 4088 St. Denis, 514-843-4194 (Plateau - Mont Royal)—Fantastic Asian vegetarian restaurant with delicate and varied flavours and appetizers to dream about. The three flavours beef, fried seaweed appetizer and dumplings in peanut sauce are my favorites. Stand warned, everything is mock meat, unless it is tofu or vegetables. You can bring your own wine to Chuch Express. $-$$

Milos, 5357 Ave. du Parc, 514-272-3522 (Mile End)—If you are looking for seafood, this is the place, they fly it in fresh. As well, they have often sponsored Talya's theatre shows - so support them! Beautiful, delicate food and good lunch specials, since the fresh fish comes at a cost. $$$

Rumi, 5198 Hutchison, 514-490-1999 (Mile End) —This restuarant is named after the 13th century sufi mystic poet and the atmosphere here feels very peaceful and mystical indeed. The food is truly out of this world with its Persian and Turkish influences and wonderful blend of flavors. The brothers who run the restaurant are converts to Sufism and glow peace at you inescapably. $$

Sala Rossa, 4848 St. Laurent Blvd, 514-284-0122 (Plateau)— Fantastic place for tapas. It is a Spanish social club and has a very down to earth atmosphere. On Thursdays they have a flamenco dancer with live music. $-$$

Santropol, 3990 St Urbain, 514-842-3110 (Plateau) A Montreal institution at the foot of the mountain, this charming cafe restaurant is known for its triple-decker sandwiches, epic tea list and beautiful garden out the back for summer dining al fresco. $

French Restaurants
Au Petit Extra, 1690 Ontario E., 514-527-5552 (The Village - Metro Papineau)— $$-$$$ (2006) Excellent French bistro cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere.

Au Pied de Cochon, 536 Duluth E., 514-281-1114 (Plateau East - Metro Sherbrooke)— $$$ (2007) Meaty Quebecois cuisine. Rich, hearty food that people say is to die for. Seafood is served in summer if you are not a big meat eater.

Laloux, 250 Pine Ave E., 514 287-9127 (Plateau) Two young star chefs on the Montreal scene are running this charming French Bistro. $$$

Le P’tit Plateau, 330 Marie-Anne E., 282-6342 (Plateau)—Really cozy, romantic, lovely place with cuisine from the south of France that is mouth wateringly delicious. Book ahead and bring your own wine. $$$

Breakfast
l’Avenue du Plateau, 922 Mont-Royal E., 514-523-8780 (Plateau - Metro Mont Royal)— Not too far a stretch to name this one of the best breakfast spots in town, with plates that are large and lavish. There are often line-ups on the weekend. Quirky atmosphere with music that is boardering on too loud. Check out the bathrooms in this place! $-$$

Le Pistou Dejeuner, 4489 de la Roche 524-527-2900 - Great little weekend brunch spot. $

Ma-a-am Bolduc, 4351 de Lorimier at Marie-Anne, 514-527-3884 (Plateau East)— Fabulous spot for a very inexpensive no frills breakfast. Very French Canadian and full of atmosphere. $

Toi, Moi et Cafe, 244 Laurier W, 514-279-9599 (Mile End)—Terrific breakfasts, deliciously satisfying soups and salads and one of the best cups of coffee in town. Hmmm...last time I went there the breakfast was less than terrific. $


Diners
l’Anecdote, 801 Rachel E., 514-526-7967 (Plateau - Metro Mont Royal)— Nice atmosphere in this authentic ‘50s-style diner which serves good breakfasts (crepes, pancakes, omlettes, belgian waffles) and is also known for its burgers, homemade mayonnaise and value for money wine selection. $

La Banquise, 994 Rachel E., 525-2415 (Plateau - Metro Mont Royal)— 24-hour casse-croute with an enormous poutine menu. This place is open all night, and doesn't greasy food always taste better at 1am? $

La Paryse, 302 Ontario E, 842-2040 (Latin Quarter)— Fabulous burgers, really delicious vege burger and a hip yet quaint setting to top it all off. $

Patati Patata , 4177 St. Laurent Blvd. (Plateau)— This place is tiny and always packed. The prices are really ridiculously low and the food is utterly delicious. The fries are Belgian style and the borscht is like your grandmother made it (if she made borscht), scrumptuous burgers and fish as well. $

Ice Cream & Sorbet
Le Bilboquet, 1311 Bernard W., 514-276-0414 (Outremont - Metro Outremont)— Splendid artisan made Ice cream and sorbet. Be prepared to wait in the long lines that stretch down the street in summer. Try the maple taffy, it is very Canadian.


Bagels
Fairmount Bagel, 74 Fairmount W., 514-272-0667 (Mile End)— If you haven't heard already, Montreal is known for its 24 hour bagel bakeries. Montreal bagels are unlike any others in the world - is it the honey in the water? The wood burning ovens? Or some secret we will never know but will be forever greatful for? Get them hot off the wooden pallet.

Chocolate
Les Chocolats de Chloé, 375 Roy E., 849-5550 (Plateau)— Amazingly delectable hand made chocolate. Artisan chocolate making has become all the rage in Montreal, poor us!

Chocolats Genevieve, 162 Saint-Viateur O, 514-394-1000 (Mile End)— Hand made Chocolates that not only look divine, they are divine.

Other
La Chilenita, 64 Marie-Anne W., 982-9212, and 152 Napoleon E., 286-6075 (Plateau)— A must try! The empanadas here are so very delicious and the homemade salsa is mouth watering. Right near the mountain, a relaxed, unpretentious place for a quick bite before a long walk. $

Schwartz’s, 3895 St Laurent Blvd, 842-4813 (Plateau)—This is a Montreal institution for smoked meat. I have to admit, I have never tried it, but they are queuing down the street for the stuff. $